Return to Rabat

Bonjour,

After Fes, we returned to Rabat, where the Halloween festivities continued even though we were now into November.

Bob headed out to the local produce stand and bought a huge, pumpkin-like squash. Here in Morocco, people usually just buy a small piece hacked off of these mostly-green squash to cook as part of the standard Friday lunch of couscous and vegetables.

Astounding the produce guys, Bob bought the whole thing (for about $10, probably an average day's pay for the produce guys) and brought it back for Anna and Tommy to carve.

The kids went to town, carving a "rabid cat."

Since then, Rachida (our maid, cook and friend) has chopped it up and given most of it away to others. She's also made pumpkin couscous, pumpkin salad (cold and mashed, with lots of garlic), pumpkin-based soup... just a whole lotta pumpkin for us. We're still eating that pumpkin.

The next morning, Gracie spent some quality time at home with her cousins and Rachida, while Karla, Gary and I set out for the Chellah, since they missed it before. (See prior post on Gracie's North African Adventure).

Our next stop: The Tour Hassan and Mausoleum of Mohammed V and Hassan II (again, see prior post, but suffice to say this is like a Washington Monument for Moroccans, since Mohammed V was the first king of independent Morocco). (Fountain in photo at top is just outside of the mausoleum).

When leaving Tour Hassan, Karla received an unsolicited henna tattoo by a woman thinking that this tactic would earn her some dirhams. It didn't work.

That said, the tattoo does like pretty cool now.

Only two hours later, we were on the train, traveling to another former Spanish enclave, Asilah. Asilah is the present-day haunt of artists and many European and Moroccan tourists (and now on my list for another one of the prettiest cities in Morocco).

A bientot,

Kim

Fes for Halloween

Bonjour,

After a brief stop in Rabat, our group headed off to Fes for Halloween.

At our elegant riad, we had a mini-Halloween celebration. For costumes, Bob, Anna and Tommy improvised from things they found in the room. I'll let you figure out what they were.

Anna then decided she would dress up in a second costume -- as her mother.

Hmmm.

Also that afternoon, I bravely went out with Karla and Gary to help them find a rug. At first, Anna, Nana and Bob joined us.

But after a little time on the scene, Bob, Anna and Nana quickly disappeared, leaving just Karla, Gary, Gracie, and me.

Low point of the experience? Definitely when Karla announced -- after at least an hour of looking at no fewer than 30-40 rugs and narrowing the choices down to five -- that she really needed to see some more rugs (especially since the shopkeeper had something like 800 more of that same style). Oh dear.

High point of the experience? Somewhat later, when I realized that Karla and Gary had reconciled their notably different taste in rugs and had truly (and at long last) agreed upon a very nice rug. Al-Hamdulillah.

In the meantime, poor Gracie had just given up and coped the best way that six-month old babies can under such circumstances.

The next day, we explored the medina further.


Just a couple of notes on Fes, one of my many favorite cities in Morocco: Fes is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for good reason. Founded in the 9th century, it is a city that serves for many as the cultural capital of Morocco and is best known for its authentic, medieval medina. The call to prayer at sunset is, for me, almost magical as it echoes through the city.

The medina is filled with shops, residents, beautifully-renovated and as-yet-still-ruined riads and more than 9500 narrow streets in which to wander and lose yourself.

A few shots from the medina: The tanneries.

A donkey at work in a narrow lane.

A brass shop.

The street musicians, looking for some dirham tips.
Karla, Grace and Gary at the 14th century Bou Inania Medersa.

Goofing off at Cafe Clock, our favorite place for lunch in Fes (with the best date-almond milkshakes in the world, although Karla's banana-almond milkshake was pretty good too).

Then it was time to take Nana and PopPop back to Rabat for their flight home, while Karla, Grace and Gary were just getting, ah, warmed up on their shopping. The Fes shopkeepers were about to have their hands full.

A bientot,

Kim

A Stop for Luxury: Le Mirage

Bonjour,

Continuing our tour with Northern Morocco, we next stopped at Le Mirage in Cap Spartel for a bit of luxury and lots of pretty beach shots. Cap Spartel is near the junction of the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea, by Tanger.

Some views of the grounds and hotel.

Anna by our suite.

And here's Tommy with his tiny lizard, Squirmy, that he found at Le Mirage (biggest selling point of hotel for Tommy).

Now, some views of the beach, the shoreline, and us posing on the beach.

Naturally, we needed to take a six-month to the formal dining room that night. Can't expect Gracie to miss out, can you?

And here's what happens when I try to get Bob to smile using the same technique that works with Gracie (you say "Gracie, Gracie, Gracie!", really fast in a high-pitched voice). Apparently, it works on PopPop, though.

Your blogger.

The next morning, we had breakfast by the 19th century lighthouse, where you can have your picture taken with a baby donkey for just a couple of dirhams.


We then checked out the Grottes d'Hercule (Hercules' fabled (?) caves, where he supposedly rested after forging the Straits of Gibraltor) before heading back to Rabat.

A bientot,

Kim

Next Stop: Tetouan

Bonjour,

After leaving Chefchaouen, we headed out toward Tanger and Cap Spartel. En route, we stopped in Tetouan, at the base of the Rif Mountains.

Tetouan was the capital of the Spanish Protectorate in Morocco until Morocco's independence in 1956. The Spanish influence is clear in some of the architecture and in the prevalence of Spanish (not French) spoken as many people's second language.

Tetouan's medina has been designated a world heritage site because it remains largely untouched by modern development, although the city has begun to see some investment elsewhere, including in the pretty parks that surround the medina.

While there, we checked out the Ethnographic Museum, where Anna went wild taking photos of the exhibits, the cool building (with the painted doors), and her mother (who struck a few poses).

Look who also liked the museum...

Before leaving, we lunched at a tasty grill/sandwich shop, where sandwiches, fries and sodas for our group of eight cost about $11.

Then it was off to the sea and Le Mirage...

A bientot,

Kim